Journals of a Cafe Racer

In the quest to find the perfect bag that is not obtrusive I made an accidental discovery. I was looking through one of the catalogs at the shop and notice a Chase Harper bag specifically for Ducatis. The cool part about the bag is it mounted to the frame down next to the seat just behind the drivers leg. I began to wonder, "HMMMM I wonder if I could find a bag for that?"

But as with everything my A.D.D kicked in and I was off on something else. Check forward to this morning. I had a huge event to get to and I wanted to take my camera. Issue where do I put it? (No helpful hints please.) So I frantically started trying to place an old bag I had onto the bike. Below is the result.

I was able to sort of cross mount the bag behind my right leg next to the frame. It is almost a perfect fit, and the leather keeps the bike looking somewhat vintage. I will have to look and see what bag this is, IE part #, but I think it comes from RGC.

I am sure it is to be modified a little more, but for the most part I am very happy.

Well it has been over six months since I last posted. It is that I just did not have any real modes. But that all changed when my daughter has matured into being able to stay with our friends and such. This spurred my wife back into wanting to ride with me again. Now the previous seat I had worked up was a solo style. Now my wife COULD have sat on the solo portion of the seat, but the material was fairly slick, and I would NOT want to lose the second love of my life. (First being God, third being my daughter.) So I went back to seat maker, David Lee, and had him work up a vintage style Triumph dual race seat. Needless to say it turned out WAY better than I could have wanted! (Not to mention it was only $125!) But, with the new seat I had been wanting to ditch the "limp sausage" taillight. I have been seeing WAY to many "custom" choppers with the same light. The one thing I cannot stand is to be like others. (Such a non-conformist) What resulted was a mixture of the factory light and a VStar lic. plate holder.

Parts:
W650 Factory Stop lamp
Vstar Factory License plate holder
Triangle metal pieces with holes at all three corners (or some thick backstrap)
Screws for license plate
Screws for bracket
Marker
Misc. screw drivers and wrenches (Mainly 10 and 8 mm)

Tools:
Drill
Socket (to fit screws)
Drill bit (to fit screw size)
Necessary wiring stuff (connectors, splicers, tape, wire)

*****Before you start remove seat*******

1. Remove W650 lamp from bracket.
2. Remove W650 bracket from fender
3. Bend Vstar bracket into "L" shape where the single piece goes into the main license plate holder.
4. Place bent bracket onto fender and mark holes to drill. (Using marker)
5. Remove bent bracket and drill holes.
6. Secure license plate to large part of bent bracket (Don't tighten just secure for holding.)
7. Loosen one side of license plate and slide backstrap or metal triangle onto the back side of the bent braket over the screw for the license plate. (Tighten hand tight)
8. Repeat 7 for other side.
9. Adjust triangle or backstrap so that W650 stop lamp screws go through holes just above the license plate.
10. Secure W650 stop lamp to backtrap or triangle. (Hand tight)
11. Adjust placement of w650 stop light until it is centered over tire.
12. Tighten all bolts with wrench. (So it won't move.)
13. Remove wire from inside of fender well.
14. Run wire under rearseat bar.
15. Reconnect wires to corresponding plug.
16. Test light.


Total time this took me about 60 minutes. If I would have been closer to 30 had I not been trying to fabricate. (GRIN) See the pics to see the difference! I also added some new turn signals. (Parts Unlimited #DS280006 $16.95) This was a very easy installation. (See previous post about installing signals.) Simply unscrewed, unplugged, replugged, rescrewed. Very easy.

So here are the pics of the new seat and new signals!

Well this mod has been a little in the making, since I had to wait for one of the mirrors to be shipped. BUT, it finally arrived and I was able to complete the mod.

If you read my previous post you would have seen were I "fabricated", I use that term loosely, some headlamp mounted mirrors. The mirrors and the placement were about par. The issue was that the "fabrication" job was less than stellar. The main issue I was having was that at high speed, say highway speed, everything was a huge vibrating blur. I THINK I figured out that the torque from the wind and the engine vibration is what the main cause of this blur was.

My second issue was the less than stellar mounting. It was a hack job at best and really did not look very good. I liked the concept, but the mount was not what I hoped for.

This time around I used a little more standard approach and even though it is not, let's say, ornamental in appearance. It seems that the mount is WAY more stable and WAY easier to assemble. (Not to mention the cost!)

So, for this project I purchased:
4 3" "L" brackets. Each bracket is 3" per side with two holes per side. $.99 each
2 10" Motoboss round mirrors. (Part # BG9163 from Cycle Gear) $7.99 each
4 small bolts and lock nuts. (large enough to the hole in the "L" bracket, yet short enough they did not stick out to far.) $1.50 or so
2 large nuts, 1/2" (used as spacers so they don't have to thread anything.) $.17 each

Tools:
Metal saw
Large drill bit (larger than the screw that comes with the mirrors)
12mm wrench
12mm socket
Drill
Phillips screw driver

1. Remove your headlamp. This is an easy process and requires the simple removal of two phillips screws on each side of the headlamp housing.
2. Next drill a hole in one of the "L" bracket holes that is closest to the inside. (It does not matter which hole as you can always turn the bracket to make it work.)
3. Using the metal saw cut off the excess metal from the "L" bracket you just drilled the hole in. You want to cut the excess from the same side you just drilled the hole. I cut it about 1/4 " from the outer edge of my drilled out hole.
4. Drill another hole, this time in the hole that is on the side left with TWO holes. Use the hole that is the furthest from the center.
5. Remove the right side headlamp bolt that holds the headlamp to the headlamp bracket.
6. Slide the bracket on the outside of the headlamp bracket and push headlamp bolt through.
7. Re-attached the headlamp bolt. (Don't tighten all the way. You will need some play for later.)
8. Repeat steps 2-7 for left side.
9. On the right "L" bracket secure second "L" bracket into place using the last remaining hole on the "L" bracket. You will use one of your bolts and lock nuts here. (Make sure to use the outer most hole on the second bracket.)
10. Repeat step 9 for left side.
11. Take the metal strap that came with either mirror and straighten it as flat as you can.
12. Place metal strap in position so that it lines up with the holes on the two "L" brackets you just secured. (The holes will line up, but they won't be to the same inner and outer. SEE PIC.)
13. Secure everything tight, ensuring that all the brackets are as straight as possible.
14. On the right side, slide the 1/2" nut over the mirror bolt/
15. Slide mirror bolt into "L" bracket and tighten, so as not to loose anything.
16. Slide mirror into bolt and tighten the remainder of the way.
17. Repeat steps 14-16 for left mirror
18. Adjust mirrors and finish tightening.

All in all it took me about 30 min a side, but I was trying to document. To cover up the brackets and such I use a handlebar bag. It is something I use every time I ride anyway, and just helps the look.

As for the turn signals. I have the installation document in an earlier thread. What I did, was found some Biker Choice signals that match the bar end signals for a better more complete look. (See Pics)
Last I also removed the fork tube covers and installed some different brackets. I will try to get the part# and document this soon.
Till then look at the pics and enjoy!

So a few weeks back a gentleman stopped by the store. His trusty stead was none other than a 1960's R/60. NOW, I am not the world's biggest beemer fan, although a boxer engine is classy and sexy all at once, but this bike had some trick features. First thing that drew my eye was the headlamp mounted mirrors. These were the trickest things I had ever seen. Then as I push started him away I noticed the barend turnsignals! So once I had time to contemplate it was GAME ON! What follows is my best effort to document what I did to the DUB to try and get some barend lights and the headlight mounted mirrors.

Parts:
EMGO barend lights part#60-14550 (Purchased from my friends at www.britcycles.com) price about $40 shipped (7/8" bars required.)
2 Bikemaster mirrors part#600070 (Purchased through Parts Unlimited.) price about $26 shipped. (Had I known what I was about to do I would have used part# 2006810 and threaded the ends.)
2 Bikemaster mirros part# 203400 (Purchased through Parts Unlimted.) price about $26 shipped. (Previous purchase used to scavage)
Heat shrink tube
18 guage wire. (I used two 22 gauge pieces tied together. Hindsight is always 20/20)
Butt connectors

Tools:
8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm wrenches and sockets
3/4" -1" drill bit
Small drill bit (Just large enough for the 18 gauge wire)
Drill
Flat and Phillps head screw drivers
Wire Cutter/Stripper
Crimper
Blow dryer
Metal File

First remove the headlight from the brackets. (There should be two screws holding the headlamp into the bowl. Then there should be two bolts holding the bowl to the brackets.) Next is removal of the turnsignals. Start with the rightside of the bike. (As if you were seated on the bike.) Unscrew the nut holding the turnsignal in place. Once the signal is free from the bracket, cut the three wires leading into the signal. (BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT CUT ALL THREE WIRES AT ONCE. This is a three wire light so one wire is the ground and the other two recieve power. You run the risk of grounding out your electrical system if you cut all three at once.)

After you have cut the wires you SHOULD see the wires colors as red, black, black with a white stripe. The only wire you are concerned with SHOULD be the red. Strip enough of the red wire so that you can get a butt connector over it with a good conection. Next open the barend lights. Extract either light. remove the light bulb from the light. Loosen the nut so you can insert into handle bars. Cut a 2' strip of 18 gauge wire. Strip the end of the wire coming off the turnsignal. Use a butt connector and connect the 18 gauge to the turnsignal. Next remove the end cap from the handle bars. (As I have clubmans that are plugged at the end. If you are using drag bars or another style of bar you will need to cut an exit hole for the wire. You will also want to feed the 18 gauge from this hole towards the end of the bar.) Feed the connected wire through the bar and out the open end. Using the small drill bit drill a hole in the end cap. Feed the excess wire through this hole. Mount the light into barend. Pull 18 gauge to get some of the slack out of the bar. (Don't pull to hard or you will undo the butt connector.) Strip the end of the 18 gauge wire. Place a butt connector onto the red wire. Slide heat shrink over 18 gauge wire. Connect 18 gauge and red wire using butt connector. (Don't crimp until you test to make sure the red wire is correct!!!) Replace light bulb and test light. (These lights use the body of the light to the bar to the bike as a ground. So if the light is not in the bar end it will not ground hence no light.)
Repeat steps for left side except you will use the BLUE wire. Once finished mounting all the wires and such use the blow dryer to reduce the heat shrink around the wires as close to the end plug as possible. The idea is to look as factory as possible.

Next is the mirrors. First thing is I had to have a friend with a press straighten the mirrors as much as possible. Had I known I was going tihs route I would have just bought straight mirrors! BUT, I used what I had. So after getting the mirrors straight it was off and running. First, I disassmebled both sets of mirrors. I did not want the round mirrors that came with the 10" stems, so I replaced them with the rectangular mirrors from my existing barend mirrors. (I will be using their brackets here in a minute.) Next, drill a hole into the end of the barend mirror brackets where the actual mirror connected to the bracket. Use the large drill bit and a lot of patience. This was some VERY thick metal. Once this is done mount the brackets to the headlamp brackets and into the headlamp bowl. Do this using the barend mirror bolts, they are super long to make it through everything. When mounting the bracket make sure it bows OUT from the mirror and make sure to use the opposite hole than the one you just drilled. Tighten these down tight enough that the weight of the mirror will not cause them to shift. Now take the mirrors and mount them into the holes you drilled. Use the nut from the original headlamp bolt as the back bolt for the mirror. (Mine fit exactly. If yours does not then you will need to find an appropriate nut.) Tighten these down fairly tight. Sit on the bike and sort of play with placement. You will be tightening and untighten bolts as necessary. Once you find the right placement you are done. Tighten everything as tight as it will allow. Reassemble headlight. You are DONE!

I road with these mirrors for the first time today. What you are able to see is amazing! They don't stick out any further than my barends did, fact they are inside the new turnsignals. BUT, man you can see everything! They do vibrate, as one might expect, but I am thinking about how to lessen these, although at 70mph it was not worse than anyother mirror I have ever had. I put some pics below for you to see.

Everyone says it. No one believes it. BUT, it is true. This was the modification that ANYONE should do first. It was about $75 total and WHAT a difference it makes! What may you ask am I talking about? Progressive fork springs! HOLY COW what a difference! Now mind you that most UJM's are made for a 150lb, 5'7" sort of person. I am 6"4" and weigh cough***230***cough. Honestly my arms were flat out getting tired running around town. I would tap the front brake and nose plow and arm strain would follow. So I ordered the progressive springs through Tucker Rocky, I think retail was just shy of $80. I also decided that if I was going to replace the oil, which you pretty much have to, that I would go to a medium weight of 20.

So two nights ago the parts arrived and the stage was set. SOOO here is what you will need.

Tools:
19mm allen (remove front wheel and fork cap.)
10mm allen (triple clamp)
12mm allen (bottom triple clamp and pinch bolt)
10mm wrench (fender removal and brake removal)
hack saw (trim factory spacers to 2")
Center lift that will balance bike w/o front end or center stand
with blocks under the front for support.
Vice w/ soft grips or a few towels. (Protect forks.)
Mililiter measuring cup
Tape measurer
Duct tape or electrical tape

Parts
Progressive Springs (Tucker Rocky part#77-1129 pg 541)
20 wght Fork Oil

1. Balance bike so front end can be removed. Works best if there is a lift to get the front tire of the ground for removal.
2. Loosen left side pinch bolt (This is the axle nut side.)
3. Remove front tire by unscrewing the LEFT side of axle. (This is the nut side.) Remove axle
4. Remove front fender
5. Remove brake caliper from fork tube. (No reason to disassmble caliper. Just remove from fork tube and slide off disc.)
6. Loosen JUST the left side triple bolts. (Keeping one fork on at any given time will assist in lining all the triple and headlamp guides for remounting of fork.)
7. Slide the fork tube out. (You may have to twist it a little. Just be patient and work slowly.)
8. Place fork tube into vice w/ protective grips of some sort.
9. Slowly unscrew the fork cap.
10. Once unscrewed remove the fork from the vice and dump the old oil out. The old spring, spacer, and a flat washer will come out. DON'T LOOSE THE SPACER OR WASHER!
11. Leave the fork tube to drain
12. Take the spacer and measure 2" from either end. (This is what is recommended by Progressive. It is part of the spring instructions.)
13. Double check your measurement and mark where to cut.
14. Use your duct tape or electrical tape to mark your line all the way around so you cut straight.
15. Cut off your 2" spacer.
16. Put your spring back into the vice and full compress. (Be slow and gentle we don't want to blow a seal.)
17. Open the fork oil and pour 110 ml into your measuring cup. (This was the recommended amount per the mechanic at the shop.)
18. Pour the oil into the compressed tube.
19. Extend the tube and place the spring, then the washer, then the trimmed 2" spacer.
20. Put the top section of the fork tube in the vice.
21. Screw the top back onto the fork.
22. Replace the fork and all trimmings you took off. (Minus fender)
23. Repeat steps for right side
24. Replace fender (Do this BEFORE the wheel to save for some working space.)
25. Replace wheel
26. DONE!

It took me about 2 hours, as it was the first time I had ever done anything like this. In all honesty once I did the first one, the second was knocked out in about 20 minutes. This is a fairly easy job if you have all the right tools. I am writting this all from memory so PLEASE cross check all the tools and sizes before you start. (As I am sure I missed something.)

The ride was amazing different. The nose dive and soft ride is replaced with a smooth ride with little to no dive on normal braking. So very very worth ones time and money, if you are a bigger person like myself. Hope this helps!

Well, after my wife and two of my friends told me that they could NOT see my rear turnsignals. I decided to try and find some brighter bulbs. Issue at hand is my signals WERE three wire, meaning the bulbs were a dual element. After searching a few auto shops I figured I would go to Cycle Gear and just get some LED's. After looking for LED replacement lamps for 10 minutes I finally realized I was at a cross roads. I either needed to get some different turn signals OR I was looking to fabricate my own LED's.

Now I have some experience with 12 volt electricty. My first year out of highschool I wired car stereos and amps. (It's not rocket science. Postive and Negative. You have to have both or it won't worky.) So, I started looking at Cycle Gears selection of accent LED's. Sure enough tucked away at the back of a row was some WHITE accent lights. Now the accent lights are two seperate pods wired to a single switch. Each pod contains 6 LED's. The trick was could I get the LED pods into my current turnsignal housing. Needless to say I was able to do so. Following are the tools needed and the steps I took.

Tools/Equipment
14mm Wrench
Phillips screw driver
Wire cutters/splicers
Electrical Tape
LED's (Pods) Like these but in WHITE
Fan (<--It was over 80 degrees today!)

1. Remove turn signal (This will require the removal of the seat. It might also require removal of the rear fend if you relocated your turn signals.)
2. Disconnect electrical wires
3. Remove lens cap from signal
4. Remove bulb
5. Unscrew bulb housing
6. Remove bulb housing and wire from turn signal. (If the signals allow to disconnect the support arm it will help in the removal of the wires through this section of the light.)
7. Take LED's out of box
8. Split the shrink tube so you can see were the two pods connect to the main wire.
9. Cut pod wires right at the junction into the main wire
10. Carefully split the shrink tube between the black and red wires of ONE of the pods (Make sure to split enough shrink tube so you can re-wire the turn signals.)
11. Cut excess shrink tube off
12. Remove the pod from it's holder.
12. Screw the holder into place using one of the original screws and the screw hole in the light housing.
13. Run the wires through the housing and out the mounting arm. (Essentially reversing step 6)
14. Push pod into pod holder
15. Replace all parts of light housing EXCEPT the lens cap
16. Mount light
17. Wire light (Red goes to grey for left side and green for right and black goes to black with yellow stripe.)
18. Test light to see if it works
19. If works replace lens and repeat for other side. If it does NOT work most likely a wire is disconnected or the signal was not turned to the correct side.

Pic show finish product before lens cap. (Sorry for the blur, but you get the idea.)

On all the bikes I've owned, I have always wanted steel front brake lines. With working at the shop and having a little extra $$$ I figured this was the best timing. So I ordered the Goodridge 38" universal along with 2 38* banjo bolts. After a small shipping mishap the parts all arrived today. Yep, you guessed it, that means I went to work tonight. Installing new brake lines is not rocket science. It is more a matter of just patience and time.

Parts needed. 10mm and 12mm wrenches. One way bleeder valve (Helps for a one person job) Lots of paper or shop towels to help clean up, Screwdriver to remove brak resevoir cap, last but not least replacement parts...

Step 1. Drain brake fluid from existing line
Step 2. Remove lower banjo with 12mm
Step 3. Feed old hose out
Step 4. Remove top banjo with 12mm
Step 5. Feed new line into place
Step 6. Attach new banjos to line
Step 7. Attach new banjos to master cylinder and brake cylinder
Step 8. Bleed brakes
Step 9. Clean up!

I am not sure if it is my imagination or what, but the front brake does seem firmer. I will know more tomorrow when I test ride. Till then here are some pics...

Well, I was reffered back to Omar's. (Not that I have anything against them.) I have left them a message and await a return call. In the interim I am looking at just finding some Dunstall style pegs to reduce vibration and provide better traction. (Because they are rubber.)

As for the ministry and what is going on. First I don't like the word "ministry." It seems everyone has one and no one knows what to do with it. Instead, I look at things as though I am a goer. Jesus said to Go and Do. So I am trying just that. To GO and DO.

My current DO projects are some what lofty and causing much time away from the family. First, we "stole" one of our pastors motorcycles. Our goal was to pimp it out in appreciation for all he has done! Second, I am working on a website, www.buildingchange.org, for 4 HIM. Third, I am working on getting the Life Church riding club back to form. Last, I have volunteered to help on a website for another non-profit. (Not to be mentioned as of yet.)

Needless to say I feel drawn a thousand directions. BUT, I feel I am doing exactly what I need to at the time I am needing. SOOOO just keep on keeping on. Praying and knowing God is going to follow through with His promises.

On April 22 I will be speaking in Kansas for the first time at my original church. It is before a group of ladies, but this is a HUGE inside into this church. I am really praying that hearts will be opened and that a group will rise up to go on trips! We shall see...

Well I sent and email to RAASK just sort of voicing my concern over the fitting and such of the rearsets. I also was curious as to if they could get me the classic chrome looking controls and rubbers as they have on their CB750 set. WELLL, sure enough I got a quick reply from RAASK. They acknowledge my disatisfaction and gave me some suggestions. They also indicated they could get me the parts I was looking for. So currently I am waiting for their reply as to the cost, as I really really want these controls to finish the retro look.

As soon as I get pricing and such I will post more! Man I am getting really excited!

Well, being 6' 4" I needed to do something with my legs. The W650 has a very comfortable stock riding position, at city street speeds. (10-45 mph) But, once on the highway and moving at 50+ the wind started to try and pry my legs away from the tank. Now the simple solution is to drop the knee to a slightly more arrow dynamic shape and off you go. Issue is the pillion pegs are WAY WAY back. So...I figure a set of rearsets should do the trick. Now the issue at hand is that there is only one company that makes rearsets specific to the Dub. (RAASK) The only place to get them in the US is Omar's. (Good enough place no issues with their service.)

The rearsets LOOKED simple enough. SO, while I was in Mexico I had the wife order the rearsets. It took exactly two weeks from date of order for their arrival. I pulled them from the box and first thought was, "These things are sort of cheap made. I mean I forked out $300 and they are more or less cast." BUT, I was determined that these were going to work, so off and installing I went. Now, there is NO installation instructions with these RAASK's. There is a VERY simple picture, not even on the bike. I was able to locate a few other pics of people who previously installed them. (Thanks to the Yahoo group members who blazed the way.)

Anyway, after two evenings of wrestling with the rearsets, mainly the brake side, I had them installed. I dawn my gear and head off for a trip around the lake. First thing I notice is that these rearsets are true to their word. They sit almost directly under the pillion pegs. I mean my legs were so far back I felt like superman. Second thing I noticed is that because of my feet placement I was shoved nearly up onto the fuel tank. (Not the location I want to be when on the highway.) Last, because of the previous to issues I was now placing a lot of weight onto my throttle wrist. (More than I had when I owned my r1.) I thought, "This will never work."

Well, I went immediatly home and started researching the yahoo group. Sure enough one of the members had encountered the same issues I stated above. His solution was to modify the existing bracket and mount the bracket in a different configuration. What a blessing this find was, so much so the member posted GREAT pics. I studied these pics in great detail and searched for his postings on what he had done. The main thing he did that I wanted to avoid was the removal of the kickstart. Now I don't plan on kicking the bike anytime soon, as I can't with my rearsets, BUT I love the look and retro feel of knowing it is there. With that in mind I wanted to save the kick start, which I was able to do.

I actually finished the rearset modification last Thursday. But do to the health of my family I have only ridden them very short runs. I can already tell the seating position is MUCH more comfortable, as is the highspeed wind issue. I am very excited to see how they work tomorrow going to work. (The weather has been really really cold.) So, I will post more after my ride tomorrow. Till then...Below are the steps and tools required for this modification:

Tools:
Drill
Drill bit Large enough for control stud
Extra Spacer that is the same thickness as the one provided
Ubolt large enough to fit around railing that hold pillion peg
Assorted wrenches (mainly 11mm 17mm 19mm)
Helps to have a ratchet with extension and the above three sockets
All components of the rearset
Very short extra bolt for positive brake stop
Hack saw
6mm Tap
Box of latex or NON-latex gloves (Much easier than washing your hands.)

Once you have all your tools then just use some trial and error (without drilling) to see where you want the pegs located and if you can get the controls to hook to the motorcycle. Once you have pinpointed where you want the pegs. Mount JUST the brace and drill your holes. Then pull the brace off and assemble the controls and remount. Once mounted you will spend some time adjusting the rear brake so that you will have one. (Be patient you will need to screw the nut on the brake bar in quit a ways.) You will also need to adjust the brake ligth sensor. (Located just above the controls on the back side of the down tube coming down the frame. I used a set of needle nose pliers and reshaped the wire to the where the loop was a little higher.) The finaly step was to mound the ubolt and then hack the end of the bolt off so it would not protrude. (I am planning to cover the ends with caps. Till then I filed them smooth.)

The left side is a lot easier, as you don't have to guess where to place the pegs. You simply place the right side on top and use it as a guide to drill the hole. (Or at least start.) Assembly will go the same as it did on the right side EXCEPT you will need to adjust the shift linkeage. I measured the distance I thought would be needed. Gave a little extra for margine of error and hacked the linkeage. Then using the tap I re-tapped the hole and threaded the linkeage onto the controls.

I know this is not great detail as to what I did. But I think the pictures will be more help than any words would. So below are the pictures of each side. If you have questions please feel free to contact me using the contact page of the website.

From the beginning all I knew was that I needed to have the name Jesus on my motorcycle. American's have devalued the name of God, turning it into a your god my god generic sort of term. We have desinsitiesed God to accomidate all god's. (Very sad, but true.) Fact, to talk about a god has become acceptable but, mention the name above all names and well that is considered rude.

So from the beginning I wanted to be offensive and rude. I wanted to put people on edge and leave no doubt who I love. This meant that from the beginning I had to have the name of JESUS on my motorcycle. So I was off building stickers. I tried to build several different styles before settling on one that looked like an old school Triumph logo. I had the sticker printed (see my other blogs) and put it on the bike. Sticker looked good, don't get me wrong, but it was black and just did not stand out.

Well, this past weekend was the Thunder Run III. Quit possible the largest motorcycle gathering in OKC. There were over 5,000 motorcycles and countless more people. It just so happened that one of the best painters and pinstripers in the OKC area had a booth set-up. (Manny's Ink and Art) For a small fee we removed the stickers and he free handed the logo onto the gas tank. This time instead of using black, Manny used a gold metal flake and then outlined in a light blue. As you can see below the results were AMAZING! When he finished I was left beside myself with pleasure. I knew at that point that there was NO WAY people would miss my point.

The other cool part is that at the time Manny was not doing any pinstriping and because people saw what he was doing to the DUB, well more people started coming over and getting more bikes done. (Sometimes it takes a few people to just start the others rolling.)

Now for my sad decision. After some prayer and consultation within the family, I have decided that this year is not the year to go to Africa. Our family goal is to get Kim home with Bea. Even though I had $1500 donated toward my trip, I would have to produce another $1500. We just felt that this $1500 would make such an impact in our family goal verses Africa. Now understand I am NOT one of those people who believe that you have to be "called" to a country. Jesus simply said GO, He never really said specifically where but to just GO! So instead of going to Africa, I am going to continue to focus on the motorcycle community and Mexico for the next year. This is very encouraging because I feel that I am needing to be more offensive for Jesus.

I have yet to determine what that will look like, but I am thinking that maybe a Jesus booth at some of the bike nights, or offering free water and prayer. I am not sure of the dynamics yet, but I am sure this year we will be more offensive, while building relationships! This excites me and I can't wait to see how this will shape out.

With that said....for now....here are the NEW pics!

Well the last week in Mexico was awesome! God gave me the opportunity to give a soccer ball to some school girls. I was able to build upon some old friendships. It was just a blessing to have gotten to go and touch so many lives!

As promised, and patiently waited for, the stickers are in and on the bike! I can't tell you what an ordeal it was with Fast Signs. BUT, Donnie finally got them printed and hooked me up. I have to admit that I am NOT the best at putting stickers on, not to mention the curve of the tank. So, there are some air bubles and some alignment issues, but still looks good.

As for what is next. I broke down and ordered the RAASK rearsets. They take two weeks for arrival, which means sometime next week. I am anxious to get them installed and hope they will relieve some of the wind pressure on my legs at high speeds. It seems that sitting with my legs at the "perfect" position tries to force my knees apart. SOSOSOSO hoping the rearsets will drop the knees some for a better tuck. I also hope this will stablize the high speed wobble by placing me further back on the seat.

Also after riding for a few weeks I realized that the seat needs to be flattened if not sort of sloped towards the rear. I have never fought so hard to keep from sliding foward as I do at low speeds. I guess that it is pretty common for the factory seat. Even though I reshaped the rear of the seat, the seat maker did not change the front. (Hence the slope.) I still love the astetics of the seat and the comments I get. Fact, I was going down the road yesterday and a guy pulled up next to me asking what I was riding! Man, what a GREAT fishing lure! Thank You GOD!

OK, so here are the new pics of the stickers and me on the bike...

Well got the stickers, finally. It was a huge ordeal and to just say the least it has taken 3 weeks. But see the pics below. It is not as good as say a paint job, but it is better than without. So enjoy the pics and I will try to post some more tomorrow night about my trip to Mexico.

Well, I will be honest. The main reason I wanted a Cafe Racer is you never see them. I am of an odd bread that likes to be original. So much to the point, that I like to stand out in a crowd. If everyone is wearing white. I will wear YELLOW or BLUE. I spike my hair like David Crowder just so people will shake their heads. This is why I own a Cafe Racer. It fits my personality. My persona. (Might one say.)

So, Saturday was the first time I have ridden to church. This was very exciting for me. You see there are a lot of expectations because many people know I ride and use that to glorify Jesus. So this was the day I would either wow them or leave them asking.

The first person to come see the bike is Cameron. Now Cameron is a Harley man, by nature, but he knows his scooters. He dragged for awhile and is still known to like the upper end of the speed-limit. His first impression was, WOW! He honestly thought it was an old Bonny! (Which is part of what I am going for and then part not. I am NOT trying to make Stella into something she isn't. BUT, because of the similarity to a Bonny it does strike up convesation.) He sat on her and was immediatly taken back. He looked at me and said, "I bet this is a lot of fun driving around town?!" He knew immediatly why I had done what I did.

We talked about parts and what little work I had to do. I told him how I felt Stella was an open canvas waiting to be painted. It was really good to connect to someone who understood vintage and nistalga.

The next couple of people just stood at a distance and you could tell they were trying to guess what it was. You could see in their eyes the want to know and images in their minds. That was the coolest part. To see someone sort of day dreaming or vantisizing about running through the European country side, 3/4 helmet, aviator goggles. The sound of 1960's rock-n-roll and freedom just running through the air.

So I left on my way home, heading for 39th street. This is the place all my sportbike "terrorist" tend to hang out. As I rolled up to Arby's, you could see the puzzled look on a few of their faces. It was as if someone was invading or had taken something from them. Once they realized who it was, it was over. I spent the next 45 min. talking about exhaust and jetting. How I replaced lights. How light and fun the scooter was. It was just good good times. Each time a new motorcycle rolled into the lot, another new person would appear. Another explanation was applied.

I realized THIS is exactly why I had the Cafe Racer. People once told me that I was the bait in drawing people to talk about Christ. But in my heart I knew this to not be true. As a fisher of men, I know that I need a lure or bait to draw people in. This was true in the beginning, when I had the ZR7. It was different, naked, it said JESUS. My R1 was not so different, the GPZ never said JESUS, the Sprint never saw action. So I knew that if I wanted to catch souls, I needed a better lure.

This is quite possibly the best lure God could have given me. Now it has been 4 years in the making. It has been many ups and downs to get here. But, in the end it has all been worth the effort and struggles to build what I see will be a great lure for the Kingdom.

Well I have to say that I was very very eager to get a chance to really ride Stella, my dub. So after installing the lights for the tag, and mounting the new seat. I was off and to the races! (Now mind you it is 44 degrees and I have on camo pants, a t-shirt, my helmet, my leather unlined jacket, riding boots, and shorty alpine gloves.)

So I go and aquire all my gear from the closet, which I so preciously stored away just for this moment. I slide my boots on first, right then left. Change the visor on my Shoei, only helmet I wear. Pull my jacket on, which I have been trying to sell and I have decided I will just keep. Take a deep breath and step out into the garage.

Now my baby girl is sleeping sound, so I can't really start the bike in the garage. (Echo would wake the house.) So I gingerly push the bike onto the driveway. I close the garage door and pull my helmet on for the first time in six months. I don't care how long I ride, my helmets always smell like Plexus. (Very miticulous about my windshield.) I take a deep breath and exhale slowly. I turn the ignition key to on. Verify all the lights are working and thumb the starter.

With a roar that screams let's hit the road, Stella fires up! I give her a little throttle and then let off. Almost immediatly she sputters and kicks. (It's 44 degrees wouldn't you?) So I reach down on my left side and slide the choke out just a little. Another sputter and she starts to idle a little smoother. I give her a few more seconds to warm up, now I don't want to wait to long or the neighbors will kill me. Stella is fairly loud. She has a set of Dunstall like reverse cones WITHOUT baffles. So she is not the quitest girl on the block.

I pull in the clutch, pull up the kickstand, and start rolling down the drive. We hit pavement, I give a little throttle and we are off!

Now our first stop is to get air in the tires. Issue is that the local 7-11's air pump is broke. So we flip a "U" and head towards the next closest 7-11. As we trek through the urban streets I can't help but feel how light and nimble this bike feels. I mean I thought it would be moderate, but I really feel this bike reminds me of my first bike. (2000 Kawi zr7) The addition of the cafe bars has changed the ergos very little. To me, I feel they put me in a little more comfortable positon. The steering turns in as one would expect. There was no surprises and no balance issues.

After getting air, I wanted to see what the bike would feel like at speeds over residential. I pull out of the 7-11, headed towards the highway, and throttle it pretty hard. (Just to see what would happen.) To my surprise Stella lept to life and almost immediatly screamed to her 8000 RPM redline. Now I come from sport-bikes were redlines are in the double figures. I sort of jumped to try to shift before I hurt something. As I did I dumped the clutch and that's when I felt the torque. I am not use to the torque of a twin. It sort of pushed me towards the back of my seat and for the first time in a long time my heart lept with anticipation. (Well I should say long time of being on a bike. My wife always makes my heart leap. Enough cheese.)

So I get to my highway location. Turn onto the section of highway and let her rip. I go screaming up through 3 gears to 70 mph. I will be honest, I was not sure if the 650 would pull me around. I am a big guy at 6'4" 230ish. BUT, man this little bike had NO issues. I was grining from ear to ear! This was definatly the bike I have been waiting for. It really was a great joy to ride.

Now, up at about 70 mph I did start to feel a little light in the front end. This could partially be the cold or it could partially be my weight. Either way, I will have to do some more riding to really narrow it down. (It could have also been the tires and air pressure. Not sure I have enough or to much.)

Well, I made a couple more passes on the stretch of highway before I got so cold I was shaking. So I returned to my urban enviroment just grinning from ear to ear. I simply can't wait to get on a major highway and flow with traffic.

Now the overall, with out sugar coating, review.

Bike starts and idles with ease. (Electric start that is.)
The ergos of the clubman style bars are nice and really don't put a stress on the rider.
Bike turns in with ease, as if knowing what I wanted.
Throttle responce is very impressive. Below 2500-3000 sort of sluggish. But once above, hang on torque here we come.
Sound is loud with the straight through. But, I have to say it is very romantic at the sametime.
Seat slides me a little forward. I am thinking it just needs broke in. Will ride for a while and see.
Foot position is perfect! There is NO reason for rearsets, unless you want looks.
Shifting was easy and w/o effort. Neutral is always found.

All in all, there are a lot of people who will under estimate this bike. It is to sad that it did not make a longer run in the U.S. But, Triumph is having popularity with there Bonnies and Thruxton so who knows?